325ix manual swap
Full disclosure: I don't know why I bought this car. Maybe it seemed right to save it, maybe to prove I could. But I'm getting ahead of myself. I never had a burning desire to own an E30 — 3-series when they were new. I thought the cars were fine but strongly disliked their core demographic. You know the type: popped collar, always shouting into a bag phone, no socks. To avoid guilt by association, I steered clear.
I know. My loss. BMW was right. The E30 was "the Ultimate Driving Machine. Styling was taut, the thin pillars and low beltline creating an expansive greenhouse. They were better in every respect than the E21s they replaced, and better built than the E36 that followed. Until recently, E30s were so cheap as to be disposable.
But their values have gone up like crazy. Some of this is rising-tide syndrome—the is long gone, price-wise, as is that other German legend, the Porsche But a lot of it is just the E30 finally getting its due. Living in the snowbelt, I've always liked the all-wheel-drive iX sold from to in the U. It was pretty trick in its day, even compared with the vaunted Audi S Quattro. The ZF all-wheel-drive system featured a viscous-coupling limited-slip center differential at a time when such things were basically unheard of.
In my ice-racing days, I always dreaded seeing an iX with Nokian Hakkapeliitta tires show up. Following a long search, our resident E30 addict bought this pristine example to be his wife's daily driver. Unfortunately, after two years of faithful service, the car was rear-ended in an interstate traffic jam. The iX was, to Sam and all who saw it, totaled. Well, all but me. Thirty years in a body shop will do that to a guy. I refused to declare this iX dead from a mere flesh wound.
My shop cut the iX apart. The chassis was square, and the damage, while ugly, was superficial. A rust-free rear clip from California provided a new right rear corner. Soon, the grinding, welding, and painting stopped, and the Smith iX lived again, no worse for wear.
In the fall, a set of Hakkapeliitta tires was installed, and the iX became my winter entertainment, just as fun in the powder as I suspected it would be. That's not another Eighties reference; I'm talking about actual snow. I was still thoroughly enjoying all of that when Sam came to visit recently.Discussion in ' E30 ' started by atomisticFeb 25, Log in or Sign up. Post Count: 1 Likes Received Hello Bimmer Heads! I have an '88 iX AWD e30 that hasmiles on it. I am wondering about the block and what my options are for replacing it at some point.
I understand that the AWD system complicates matters, in that the front left drive axle goes through the oil pan, and because of this the oil pump is situated differently from other e30s. Anyone on this board have experience dealing with major overhaul of an iX? It runs, the head was rebuilt 50k ago, but I'm not sure how much longer the bottom end will last, or if I'm getting anywhere near the performance I should be getting.
I do baby it right now since I have to replace one of the CV joints that is clicking. I have the parts to replace this very hard to find! Beyond that, I just want to know if there is some way that a regular e30 block could be used if I ever decide to do an engine swap.
Automatic to Manual swap (07 335i RWD)
Thanks in advance! Glad to be part of the club finally. This is my 4th e30 and 5th BMW. Post Count: 1, Likes Received Post Count: 3, Likes Received I don't know why the block wouldn't be able to be rebuilt using standard parts, as long as it's normal wear and tear and not damaged for some reason or another. A little pricey though, but not as expensive as a whole engine build from Metric Mechanic which are well done, if you're willing to pay for that. Get a compression and leakdown test, and perhaps an oil analysis after 3k or more miles, for an indication of the motor's condition, unless you're really burning oil, smoking, or making a bunch of noise.
Bit of a hassle on an 'ix, but I suppose dropping the oil pan for a visual inspection is a possibility, but I wouldn't think that would necessarily be worth the expense just for that unless it was required for other work.
When you're ready to replace your engine, the likely least-expensive option would be to swap in a used one, if a clean one can be found. If the 'ix block is specific to the 'ix don't know if it is or notfinding a clean swap engine could be a bit of a challenge.Bythe world hadn't just grown used to the idea of four-wheel drive cars; they were clamouring for them.
And while firms like Jensen, Subaru and AMC can all make their claims to bringing 4x4 to the average consumer, it was undoubtedly Audi's Quattro system that had people's blood pressure rising. The iX was built to tap that market. The first models started out as standard chrome saloons in either 2- or 4-door flavours. They used the new 2. By mating the standard engine and gearbox to a mechanical transfer box supplied by Ferguson, BMW were able to send separate drive shafts to the front and back of the car, sending power to all four wheels by way of two viscous differentials.
This system was both primitive and complex at the same time. The transfer case was outdated before it was released, but its simple mechanicals allowed BMW to set up a permanent rear-wheel bias to ensure the car still drive like a BMW.
This meant that the car could transform from autobahn cruiser to off-road ranger in a heartbeat; perfect for the icy conditions of a European winter when every ounce of traction counts.
Another boon was the weight; by crafting all the extras out of aluminium, the iX only weighs 80kg more than its two-wheel drive counterpart, and has both a wider track 13mm more and taller ride hide 20mm for better handling in adverse conditions. The downside was that the setup wasn't geared for performance, and the drivetrain ultimately robbed a significant amount of power from the six-cylinder lump. But considering the target market, this wasn't a huge issue - the iX was never intended to enter rallies, to the point where BMW actively downplayed its performance.
Official stats claimed a mph time of around 9 seconds - not exactly a slouch, but certainly a lot slower than the iX feels from behind the wheel. Third parties, such as the Swedish "Automobile" magazine, have claimed times as low as 6. But this performance came at a price. However, all were recalled to BMW for a steering issue and two were ultimately dismantled. The iX carried on through the facelift, with a Touring model added to the range.
Despite that, the iX remains a rare beast, and with only 15, units leaving the factory, it is destined to become rarer still. Despite the beefy requirements of powering all four wheels, the iX was fitted with the exact same 2. But that's where the similarities end. From the end of the gearbox, a small transfer box splits the output to two prop shafts; one forward, one rear. The rear end is similar to the E30, but the differential is a specific viscous limited slip differential with a 3.
The front end is a completely different kettle of fish; it employs a differential inside the engine sump before sending power through the drive shafts to the hubs. Because of the design, the iX's drive is a permanent All-Wheel Drive system rather than four-wheel drive. However, the viscous coupling inside these differentials are known weak points, and almost all require a long-overdue rebuild by now.
The drivetrain layout means that all the mechanicals at the front of the car are custom-made for the iX, in order to squeeze everything into the relatively small space. The subframe is unique to carry both the engine and front differential, as are the wishbones and hubs. There's even a custom steering rack, which is mounted behind the front cross-member instead of in front, like other E30s.The seller attributes the problem to the drivetrain, specifically citing the automatic transmission which will not engage in any gear, though the Ferguson transfer case used in these is a fairly common failure point as well.
In addition to a few tasteful, period upgrades, condition also looks pretty good, potentially making this one a good candidate for a manual transmission swap. Alpine White paint is described as original with a smooth, consistent finish that looks pretty good in photos despite outdoor storage and a mileage count of k. The body is also said to be in good shape with no rust, and just a few dents are specifically noted by the seller. Wheels are Style 5 basketweaves with a few missing center caps and caked-on brake dust, but condition looks serviceable.
The air dam on the front end looks like it could benefit from being refurbished, but a cool Racing Dynamics valance is fitted to the rear end, while an is -spec trunk lip is also installed. Part of the model designation has been removed, leaving behind the iX which denotes all-wheel drive. The rear seat also contains a ski pass-through door, a rarely seen E30 option. Within the engine bay sits a dirty M20B25 straight-six which looks to have some oil accumulation on top of the cam cover.
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325iX engine swap
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Clean ixs, like thisare getting desirable and hard to find. It's not like it's all sunshine and roses, though. A brake booster wouldn't fit, so the brakes are unassisted. Shouldn't be much of an issue—stock, the ix weighted about lbs according to our archival data. The S54 likely doesn't add much weight, and the nixed components like the missing brake booster also reduced mass. This and any other quibbles shouldn't matter to the type of Bimmerhead that will be attracted to. The 5-speed manual and the S54's individual throttle body wail will, however, be addictive.
It's currently up for auction at Bring a Trailer. Will the seller break even, though, after such an expensive and involved build? That's the real question. Join Now. New Cars. Car Culture. Type keyword s to search. Today's Top Stories. Remembering John Lamm. Bring a Trailer. It's wonderful. This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses.Updated 6.
E30 radiator only late will work not earlyas the reservoir is on the wrong side or E36 part with the lower mounts raised 2. E30 radiator overflow tank 3. E34 throttle cable 35 41 1 6. E21 brake booster with a modified shaft to 15mm or ix brake booster or Porsche or E32 part, without mod to the shaft.
E30 transmission cross-member; Treehouse has a custom cross-member part for the E36 transmission 9. E28 m5 or two i trans mounts, whichever are cheaper; AKG has these mounts as well E30 differential with a 3. E30 ECU mount E34 parts:. M50 radiator hoses OBDI intake manifold OBDI throttle body boot E36 alloy mounting arms The engine harness and the ECU should be E36 The exhaust from the downpipe to the muffler will be custom.
One half is connected to the car wiring, and the other is connected to the engine harness. Now I have the S50 half of the plug in its place. Although similar in appearance, it will not plug directly into the E30 half of the plug. This then allows the 2 parts to screw back together. All you need to make sure is that you have the correct wires connected to each other. The rest of the E36 engine harness is totally self-contained.
If there is a place, then it can be used. Need both knock sensors and other miscellaneous things.Forums New posts. Garage New media New comments. Resources Latest reviews. Log in Register.
Definitely would suggest to anyone who wants some good motoring back into an excellent European sports car. Manual shifts like butter and I love how precise you need to be with the clutch and how heavy the clutch feels. Grab point is up high and it loves to be in a particular spot for good engagements. I don't mind it as i've gotten used to it already lmao.
Thanks again everyone for the help and thanks omarmarji for teaming up! Back Story: I've been driving my car for about 2 years now owned it since October, and I've been reading up on mechanics and other similar topics while having owned my car, seeing as how it was a BMW I told myself I would do the work on my own to save money.
Well after doing all the work and learning the mechanics behind this German beast and with the car creeping up to k miles I was questioning whether to keep the car or trade it. The car has been very good to me, even after driving pretty hard it still runs all day everyday, I do all recommended maintenance myself K mile Oil changes, changed transmission fluid 90K Miles, etc. I've had all the common issues resolved via extended warranty HPFP, Water pump, valve cover, oil filter housing gasket, mechatronic sleeve, injectors, etc foresaw this happening that is why I got the warranty so after some research into the matter manual swap I found a really nice deal on a manual transmission with about 35K miles on it and I have a buddy of mine who has done several auto to manual swaps on other similar configuration cars longitudinally mounted transmissions, aka: typical RWD drivetrain setup and with some parts list of the conversion I was off!
So with that being said, I have decided to document the whole process for anyone who is interested in performing this DIY. I've read nothing but negative things on this job, from "waste of money" to "it's not even worth it". Well to those who love their car too much to trade it in and want to convert to manual to revive some of that "ultimate driving experience" I say to you, Read on friends!
Last edited by a moderator: Feb 2, How-To: I'm still at the moment gathering all the parts required for this, I will also be linking different DIY's and guides I found online relating to this and I will reference many of them for wiring and such as well.
I will update this thread as I obtain the parts and do the prerequisite work.